Ice Wives, Shuffleboard and Boondogles: A Random Interview with a Man who Lived in Antarctica
One day a few years ago, back when Myspace mattered, I received a friend request from someone who listed their location as “Antarctica” and I thought to myself, Oh, you hilarious Williamsburg trustafarian, don’t you realize you aren’t fooling anyone? But no, it turned out to be Richard Lamanna, a certified “Historic Hut Guide” who really and truly lived in Antarctica.
You don’t know this about yourself, but you harbor a deep seated prejudice against Antarctica. Admit it: you think Antarctica is just a whole bunch of cold and not much else, right? I did. But then I struck up this correspondence with Richard and…well…things changed. Over time, I came to know the REAL Antarctica, a lush paradise where friendships bloom and the ‘acoustic sad rock’ scene is kickin’. I know you’ve all been waiting for this, a graphic, tell-all, behind the scenes look at living and loving in the coldest place on Earth. Well here it is! Strap on your snow shoes and prepare for enlightenment…
Q: Given that it is pretty difficult to come and go in Antarctica, what happens if you get in a fight with someone? Were there dramatic romantic encounters or brutal disagreements that led to anyone getting tossed out on an ice floe to fend for themselves?
A: McMurdo is basically a giant corporate entity and as you can imagine that does not sit well with people. It’s hard to be scrutinized constantly and have signs telling you how to do everything from walking down slippery stairs to using condoms. So yes, there is a lot of drama that leads to people being kicked out of Antarctica. If you want a good insight to that, there is a book written by a friend of mine called Big Dead Place, and he also has a website. The most recent example I can think of is the Jello incident of 2008! NPR even did a little segment on it I believe.
If you fist fight, you are thrown off the Continent. You are returned to LA and you have to buy your own ticket home from there. Your contract is void and you receive no bonus.
The romantic encounters are a bit brutal in themselves! There is a whole vocabulary for things that happen down there- words like ‘ice wife‘ and that sort of thing. A good article on that side of things was written by a good friend of mine as well, Emily Stone. I believe you can read it on her website.
Q: Nightlife in Antarctica is seriously underrated. Clue us in, Richard. What were your favorite restaurants, indie rock clubs, spas and/or Walrus viewing spots?
A: You jest- but I tell you what, living in Williamsburg now does not live up to the nights in McMurdo. With three bars, a climbing wall, a gym, an all night cafeteria, a bowling alley, pool tables, room parties, ping pong, and spontaneous illegal parties (the list goes on) I was always on the move. The best part is that since most people are only there for six months you form these really intense friendships that are always in the honeymoon stage. You stay up late having all those intimate talks that seemed to thin out after high school and get to know people- which life really lacks sometimes. I find it not only hard to meet people in New York, but also sort of inconvenient to make time for new people. In Antarctica there are only so many and they are around you all the time (which can be a blessing or a curse!)
As for cluing you in, well, the bar life is pretty easy: You have the Coffeehouse, a wine bar with room for shows (lots of acoustic sad rock had been played there). There is the chill bar. Gallagher’s (my favorite) is a divey country bar complete with shuffleboard and an arcade game (with Burgertime!) This bar has room for a dance floor and harder bands play here along with DJ’s (you think I’m kidding…) Then there is the dark, smoke-filled Southern Exposure. This is where you go to hear heavy metal or hard rock and smoke yourself sick. It feels like a dirty expat bar in Thailand.
Q: What exactly were you doing in Antarctica and how long were you there?
A: Well each time I went I did something different. They say the first time you go, you go to see Antarctica. After that you go for money. I think that’s pretty accurate. My first year I was a dining attendant. My second year, I was a recreation coordinator. And my third year I was supply manager for the kitchen, which basically means moving beef knuckle and pork shoulder-butt from the freezer into the the thaw box and setting up for parties. All three years I took on extra jobs such as bartending at my favorite of the three bars or pin setting in the old fashioned bowling alley that was down there.
Mostly though I went for the friendships and the opportunity to travel. I would work six months then travel six months then return. It’s a good life if like me you find yourself a bit on the nomadic side.
Q: And how cold was it, really?
A: Well that depends- I usually go down during ‘Winfly’ which means winter fly-in. I come when it’s still dark and cold. The lowest temp I saw during that time was -70 with windchill. During summer (which is when most people go), it’s in the 20’s, not that bad, especially since the sun is out all day by then.
Q: So, when you lived in Antarctica, did you hang around out outside much?
A: Believe it or not, I did. There are a lot of opportunities for all sorts of people in McMurdo (that is the base I worked at, off the New Zealand side of Antarctica on Ross Island). There are a ton of hikes you can do, which I always tried to take advantage of and tons of outdoor activities. On our one day off (Sundays), Recreation would usually throw parties in the bars and lead outdoor activities including camping, bmx bike races and things like that. I tended to enjoy my time outdoors in Antarctica a lot. I ran my first marathon there, learned to skate ski, turned a cafeteria tray into a sled, hiked as much as possible and ran outdoors almost every day. The best outdoor activities though are when you get a ‘Boondogle,’ which is a trip off base. I was able to take a snowmobile to a Penguin colony and hang out a few times; I am also a certified Historic Hut Guide. These are the three Huts that the original explorers of Antarctica built and are still standing. People on base and from around the world come to visit them and I was able to give them tours. SO depending on how proactive you are, you can do as much or as little as you want outdoors. Before Werner Herzog visited and wrecked a snowmobile we were able to take those out every now and then, but now you can only use them after being trained.
Q: If I were leaving for Antarctica tomorrow and could only bring one thing, what should that thing be?
A: Something funny and entertaining that could be enjoyed with a group of friends. There is nothing better than stupid little things to take up your time with friends. My favorite was the travel catchphrase. But you would be surprised how ingenuity and imagination are the best tools for fun at the bottom of the world. I guess I would say, if nothing else, bring your camera!
Q: Who should I contact if I want to go live and work in Antarctica?
A: This year it’s going to change- but one could always check on the National Science Foundation’s Website. Up until this year it’s been the evil arms dealer Raytheon Polar Services…
Q: Please name one small good thing about Antarctica.
A: Community. Friendship. That feeling you get late at night sitting up with people chatting about personal things. I swear, it’s something we take for granted as adults- it feels so good to get to know another human being intimately.
Leave a Reply